I decided that since I wasn't doing anything more glamorous tonight than sitting in front of the television and watching the Academy Awards, that I would drink something glamorous instead. Tonight's winner is the 2003 Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Meursault, 1er Cru, Charmes.
Domaine des Comtes Lafon is one of the greatest Meursault producers of all time. Although the estate has been in existence for over a century, it was not until the 1950's that anyone in the family took an active interest in producing high quality wine. During that time, René Lafon extensively replanted many of the vineyards and changed the focus of the domaine to bottling a higher percentage of wine under its own label, rather than selling it to negociants. In 1984, René's son Dominique took over the estate and has been managing it solely ever since. The domaine covers almost 14 hectares of vineyards in 13 different appellations, the majority of which are in Meursault. They farm their vineyards biodynamically, harvest the grapes manually and allow their white wines age for up to 22 months in barrel.
This wine is pretty incredible and I must say very appropriate for the occasion. First off, the color of this wine is a deep golden yellow, somewhere between the color of Sandra Bullock's dress and the Oscar itself. On the nose, an intoxicating blend of honey, fully blossomed roses and sandalwood aromas fill my glass. And about the palate, all I can say is WOW. This is one seriously concentrated wine, which is no surprise considering the unusually hot vintage that was 2003. In the hands of some winemakers, this could have resulted in a flabby, flat wine, but in the hands of Lafon all is well. Notes of ripe pear and meyer lemon are complemented by ginger, cardamom and exotic spices. Along with the exotic, full-bodied personality that embodies this wine are a vibrant minerality, bracing acidity and a finish that lasts about as long as the Oscar telecast.
We have a few more bottles of this at Lucques and after tasting it I'm considering buying them for myself.